We spent the last few days of our stay in Bosnia and Herzegovina with Elvedina and Gogo. Just as if I saw her the other day - she is the same energetic and smiley person as ever! We packed a lot of miles (ok, kilometers) and emotions into a single weekend, going to Makarska on the Adriatic Coast and back. We started along the old, familiar route, even though there is a brand-new freeway that connects Sarajevo with the coast more efficiently. Passing through tunnels and driving on curvy roads through Konjic and Jablanica, we were on our way to Mostar first. We paused in Konjic for a few quick pictures, then a bit further for breakfast of burek and sirnica. Then, along the beautiful Neretva river we stopped for the traditional lamb roasted on a spit and some good Herzegovina white wine. Right afterwards we stopped on the side of the road to say hi to Elvedina's brother Eka who happened to be fishing in Neretva river. I got to see him, too, so unexpectedly!
Once in Mostar, we took a couple of hours to walk around the city, for Robb to see where I was born and for me to see it again, of course. It has changed more than Sarajevo has.... a lot of bombed buildings, some left in ruins on purpose with these mummy-like life-sized dolls stuck to them like ghosts, to serve as reminders of the past horrors. The old town around Stari Most was unbelievably busy with tourists, like I had never seen it before, and it was only end of October, completely off-season. Between the tourists and kitschy souveniers, I had to strain to see and point to Robb the beauty of the old intact architecture all around us. We continued through the newer part of town (not all the way to my grandparents' condo, but close), saw my old music school and my mom's high school that still looked as beautiful as before. Right there near the high school I noticed that the trees lining the street were 'koscela' trees, which I only knew from Mostar and which we used to climb just outside of my grandparents' building, sit on the branches, and eat the berries that grew on them. I forgot in which season the berries ripened, but as it just turned out it was fall - so this time I got to pick and eat a few again :) More memories...
On the way back to the car, we walked along the street that was still named after my grandmother's brother, Mladen Balorda. The next street over was where my grandma's family house stood and still stands, but I forgot the address, so I took a bunch of photos in the area where I knew it should be (later my mom confirmed that it was the taller house with the visible chimney on the photo below).
After this we continued the drive. A short stop in Pocitelj, another old authentic town for Robb to see, and then via Ploce to the sea. Once the view openened up to Adriatic, I had my moment... I could see Peljesac peninsula, and all the memories from my childhood summers overwhelmed me to tears. So I just looked through the window for who knows how long in silence, wiping my face. Robb joked later that he knew that this moment would come, and that he was surprised that a week went by before I cried.
By the time we got to Makarska it was dark, but the important goal was to make it to the coast before sunset, which we did. We took a little walk to the beach and back on some super-steep streets and later sat on the terrace of our apartment with some food and drinks. It wasn't just any drinks. The hosts left a small pitcher of what looked like red wine. But what it turned out to be was the fermented sour cherry (instead of grape) juice, exactly what we used to make ourselves at our summer house from our sour cherries. Probably my favorite drink of all, and not to mention the memories. The hosts had another surprise for me: they left a basket with a few small light-green apples. As I took a bite, I recogized the exact same variety that we had in our summer house garden. Another favorite, and more memories.
The next day we made a short drive to Tucepi, simply because the beaches there are more leisurely and not right next to a road. We found a spot under some pine trees next to the water. The day couldn't have been more beautiful! Sunny, warm, with that typical fragrant air, a mix of the scents of pines and saltwater and whatever else that makes one euphoric just breathing it in. If I had packed a bathing suit, I would have gone for a swim - who wouldn't have thought the weather would be like this at this time of the year?! I could have retired and stayed there right then - but we had to go...
On the way back, we stopped in Mostar again, at the cemetery where I was hoping to find the grave of my great-grandmother. It was not too far from the statue of our great poet Aleksa Santic that I also wanted to visit again. I realized after a long time that the cemetary was split in two parts, new and old, and that was in the wrong, old one, and by then we had spent too much time, so we decided to leave that visit for next time. I did find another little treasure while looking for the graves: a young box turtle, just like one of my turtles at the summer house that we kept in the yard! Before we left Mostar area, I had to stop at a fruit stand on the side of the road and pick up some local things that I've missed: local white grapes, pomegranates, and mandarins. Finally, big flavor that has been lost in plasticky produce of the U.S and EU! We got back to Sarajevo for one last night before our trip to Zagreb the next morning. Elvedina and I both hate goodbyes and wanted to both downplaybut also not waste the last moments, and we could have gotten even more awkward if she didn't have to go to work. My heart was full after this first week - with reunions, sights, memories relived, tastes...
Next stop: Zagreb.
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